Method and means for making neckties



Nov. 24, 1942. I

J. J. MGGINLEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIESQ.

- Filed Dec 1:5, 1959 15 Sheets-Sheet 1- INVEN1V'OR JZMfJJ'MG/Mi/ E .AORNEY Nov. 24, 1942.

J. J. M GlNLEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 15, 1959.15 Shget-Sheet 2 Hi. H h

INVENTOR Mill J. J. M GlNLEY" 2,303,057

H p l I METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKIIES Nov. 24, 1942.

' 15 S h ets -Sh e e't 3 Filled Dec 13, 1939 III'H H I 'W m INVENTOR \jxnis IMG/Mfl BY 4 a E ATTONEY J. "J. M GINLEY METHOD'AND MEANS FOR MAKINGmscm'ms 15 sheets-sham 4 Filed Dec. 13, 1939 INVENTOR BY Jmfs JMG/Mi/ATI' RNEY V 1 w II -4 a.

V U U W A Nov. 24, 1942. J. J. M GINLEY 2,303,057v

METHOD MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 13, 1939 15 SheetS S heet 5INVENTOR 5 ATTOENE EY Nov. 24, 1942. J McGINLEY .METHOD AND MEANS FORMAKING NECKTIES Filed Dec. 13, 1939 -l5 Sheet S heet 6 N. mm

Nov. 24, 1942. 1 J4 W 'NLEY I 2,303,057

. l l METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Fil ed Dec. 15, 1959 15Sheets-Sheet 7 BY JIMEsJ/WG/NM) A ORNEY Nbil. 24, 1942. I J. J. M GlNlEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'IES Filed Dec. 15, 1939 15Sheets-:Shet 8 rr NEY I Nov. 24,. 1942.

J. J. M GINLE Y METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'I-ES.

Filed Dec. 13, 1959 15 Sheets-Sheet 9- 4 J. J. M GlNLEY .METHQD ANDMEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIE'S Filed Dec. 13, 1939 I15 She ets-Sheet 10'INVENTOR j J7me: MGmzr 5 A11 NEYI Nov. 24, 1942.

J. J. M GINLEY' METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Fil ed Dec. 13,1939 15 Sheets-Sheet 11 INVENTOR JZwzs I M wzzr' fi 3m w. 03m m m WU w uO O O 9 s w 9%. m 00m ow m i I If N w NF 55. 2m w W8 3 9 2 m3 Om A ORNEYNbv. 24, 1942. .1. J. McGIN LEY METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES 15Sheets-Sh e et 1 2 FiledDec. 13, 1939 INVENTOR ATTOK EEY 942. 'J. J.MGINLEY 3 5 7 METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKI'IES Filed Dec. 13, 1939v 1s sheets-sheet 1a M9 v Mb'roa SWITCH 'ro souaci or cunlzsmsumv i J.J. M GINLEY v l METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NBCK'I'IES Nov. 24, 1942.

'Fil ed Dec 13, 19:59 15 Sheets-Sfieet 14 ATT RNEY Nby. 24, 1942. .H,McGINLEY 2,303,057

METHOD AND MEANS FOR-MAKING NECKTIES Patented Nov. 24, 1942 METHOD ANDMEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES James J.

McGinley, East Williston, N. Y., assignor to American Machine & FoundryCompany, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New Jersey ApplicationDecember 13, 1939, Serial No. 308,935

24 Claims.

This invention relates generally to neckties. More particularly, thisinvention relates to an improved method and means for automaticallyassembling necktie fabrics preparatory to stitching.

One of the objects of this invention is to provide an apparatus of thecharacter described, which shall have automatically actuated meanswhereby to arrange a necktie fabric and a lining in relativelysuperimposed relationship and with respect to a predetermined line ofstitching with a minimum of handling.

Another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus of thecharacter described, novel means for automatically folding a necktiefabric longitudinally and stretching the same in a longitudinaldirection after the fabric has been folded and before stitching, tosimulate the action of the making of so-called hand-made ties.

A still further object of my invention is to provide in an apparatus ofthe character described, automatic means for locking the assembled andproperly positioned necktie fabric and lining on a stitching frame.

Still another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus ofthe character described, improved automatically actuated folding meansfor folding a necktie fabric along a, predetermined longitudinal foldline. Another object of this invention is to provide in an apparatus ofthe character described, novel automatically actuated means forproviding fullness to the large end of the finished necktie.

A still further object of this invention is to provide in an apparatusof the character described, means for automatically ejecting thestitching frame from its support after it has clamped the relativelysuperimposed necktie fabno and lining in proper relationship withrespect to a predetermined line of stitching.

' Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in parthereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction,combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will beexemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which thescope of application will be indicated in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the variouspossible embodiments of this invention, 7 Fig, 1 is a front elevationalview of an apparatus designed to automatically assemble a view takensubstantially on taken substantially on necktie fabric and a liningpreparatory to stitching, in accordance with this invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged plan view of a portion of the apparatus shown inFig. 1 and illustrating a tie fabric templet with the tie fabricproperly positioned therein;

Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical cross-sectional the line 33 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a horizontal cross-sectional View taken substantially on theline 4-4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 4a is a fragmentary view of the apparatus shown in Fig. 4, butillustrating the operation of the folding blade;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged transverse cross-sectional View takensubstantially on the line 5--5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 5a is an enlarged sectional detail view of a portion of theapparatus illustrated in Fig, 5, the line 5a 5a of Fig, 5;

Fig. 6 is a horizontal cross-sectional view taken substantially on theline 6-6 of Fig. 3 and showing the lining station;

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing another stage in theautomatic operation of the apparatus;

Fig. 7a is a view similar to Fig. '7, but illustrating still anotherstep in the operation of the apparatus;

Fig. 8, is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatusshown in Fig. 3 and illustrating the means for transferring the foldedtie fabric to its superimposed position on the lining;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but illustrating a further step inthe operation thereof;

Fig. 10 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the apparatusshown in Fig. 3, but showing the stitching frame in one stage ofactuation;

Fig, 11 is an enlarged detail view of a portion of the apparatus shownin Fig. 10;

Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 14a are enlarged detail sectional views takensubstantially on the lines |2l2, 13-43, l4l4 and Mai-44a respectively,of Fig. '7 and showing the construction and operation of the automaticfabric stretching means;

Fig. 15 is a sectional detail view similar to Fig. 10. but illustratingthe final step of automatically ejecting the stitching frame;

Fig. 16 is an enlarged transverse sectional view of the stitching frameillustrated in Fig. 15, but showing the construction and operation ofthe locking means employed to prevent accidental opening of the jaws ofthe stitching frame after I a lining member which fabric casing andconnected thereto by the said the necktie fabrics have been grippedtherebetween;

Fig. 17 is a fragmentary view of a portion of the device shown in Fig.16, but illustrating a further step in the operation of the lockingmechanism;

Fig. 18 is a front elevational view of a portion of the stitching frameactuating mechanism shown in Fig.

Fig. 19 is a top plan view, but in reduced size, of the stitching frameas shown in Fig. 16;

Fig. 19a. is a view of the necktie fabric and lining shown in Fig. 19after the same has been stitched on the sewing machine and removed fromthe stitching frame;

Fig. 20 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatusshown in Fig. 18 and illustrating the means employed for causing themovement of the stitching frame to open and closed positions;

Fig. 21 is a front elevational view of a portion of the apparatus shownin Fig. 20 and as viewed substantially along the line 2 i2l of Fig. 20;

Fig. 22 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 22-22of Fig. 20;

Fig. 22a is a view similar to Fig. 22, but illustrating anotheroperative position for a portion of the apparatus;

Fig. 23 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2323of Fig. 20;

Fig. 24 is a vertical sectional View of a portion of the apparatus shownin Fig. 3, but disclosing the driving and clutching mechanism therefor;

Figs. 24a and 24b are enlarged sectional details of the tie receiving 3and 8; I

Fig. 25 is a wirin diagram illustrating the method of operation of theapparatus;

Fig. 26 is an enlarged sectional view of a portion of the apparatusshown in Fig. 4 and illustrating the construction and operation of apart of the driving mechanism for the apparatus of our invention;

Fig. 27 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 21-21of Fig. 26;

Fig. 28 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2828of Fig. 26;

Fig, 29 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 2929of Fig. 28;

Fig. 29a is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the lineMa-29a of Fig. 28;

Fig. 30 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on theline 39-30 of Fig. 1; Fig. 31 is a cross-sectional view taken on theline 3|-3l of Fig. 30;

Fig; 32 is a bottom shown in Fig. 30; and

Fig. 33 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 33-33of Fig. 31.

The manufacture of neckties is an old art and pockets shown in Figs.

plan view of the apparatus a highly specialized one, and has progressedfrom the hand-made stage to the present large scale production. mainlyby the development and perfection of mechanical tie stitching means. Thematerials employed in the making of neckties of the four-in-hand typegenerally consist of a tie fabric cut to a predetermined shape, which isformed into a tubular casing by stitching, and is disposed within thestitching. The stitching is generally accomplished with the wrong sideof the fabric outermost. and by means of a suitably designed tiestitching machine, such as for example the type disclosed in the Patentto Naftali et al.. No.

- Within 1,931,447, issued October 17, 1933. After the stitchingoperation is completed, the sewed together tie fabric layers and liningare reversed and the necktie completed by pressing.

Before joining the necktie fabric and lining by a row of stitching, itis first necessary to arrange the said fabric and lining in apredetermined superimposed relationship to each other and to theultimate line of stitching, so that, upon reversal, the lining will beproperly positioned the tubular fabric casing,

In order to provide a four-in-hand necktie which will be resilient, sothat when made up into a knot it will stretch longitudinally and uponuntying will be restored to its original shape, the necktie fabric, aswell as the lining, is preferably cut on the bias. It has been foundthat difficulty was heretofore experienced with the handling of thesebias cut fabrics and linings, due to the ease with which they stretchout of normal shape. The disadvantage in the method and means heretoforeemployed for preparing the tie fabric and lining for stitching was foundin the fact that misshapen finished neckties resulted, due to theunavoidable distortion of the bias cut fabrics during the handling ofsuch fabrics while performing the necessary preliminary arranging steps,such as for example the folding and relative positioning of the fabrics.

In accordance with the present invention, novel method and means areprovided to overcome the above described disadvantages resulting fromthe handling of the fabrics and linings preparatory to stitching. Meansare provided whereby the amount of handling necessary for properlypositioning the fabric and lining with respect to each other and to apredetermined line of stitching is minimized, and which at the same timewill result in greatly speeding up the production of neckties. Also, bythe present invention it is assured that all ties manufactured accordingto a predetermined pattern will conform to such pattern and will at thesame time be uniform in construction and appearance.

The present invention generally contemplates a method and apparatus formaking neckties in accordance with the following procedure.

A necktie fabric which has first been cut to a desired peripheral shapeis first positioned in a templet shaped to conform to the previouslycutto-pattern tie fabric. A lining having similarly been cut to adesired pattern is then placed in a second templet. The tie fabric isthen automatically folded longitudinally and automatically superimposedin such folded condition on the lining in a definitely gauged positionwith respect to an ultimate line of stitching. The relativelysuperimposed fabric and lining are then automatically mounted andmaintained in such assembled relationship on a stitching frame, afterwhich the stitching frame is automatically ejected from the apparatusfor subsequent mounting on a suitable stitching machine, or forotherwise stitching the same. Means are also provided whereby the foldednecktie is automatically stretched longitudinally before being clampedby the jaws of the stitching frame, to produce loose stitching.

Referring now in detail to the drawings, there is disclosed an apparatusconstructed in accordance with this invention and comprising an upperfiat longitudinal table member 40 and a lower flat longitudinal tablemember 4|, the said table members being substantially horizontally and43.

.. table member 4| horizontal axes. as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, to

facilitate the work of the operator when manually 1.

.action and operation .after to be described may The parts 56 and51 ofthe lower table member substantially Y-shaped in the arms of the lowerjaw of a stitching .iiisposed and suitably supported in fixed stationaryposition at opposite ends thereof by a pair of vertically disposed sidebrackets 42 and 43.

.raised templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49, shaped to conform to theperipheral contour of the cutto-pattern necktie fabric and adapted tohave the said fabric 56 positioned therebetween with respect to apredetermined longitudinal fold line which coincides with the slot 52.The templet members 46, 41, 48 and 49 may be removably fastened to thetable parts 44 and by any suitable fastening means, such as the screws5|. The table part 44 which is fixedly attached at opposite ends thereofto the brackets 42 and 43 may have its rear longitudinal edge 44a foldedover and disposed in abutting relationship with respect to a tie fabricstoppage platform 53 (Figs. 2 and 3) also supported between the Lbrackets 42 and 43.

The lower table member 4| (see Figs. 3 and 6) is designed to support apreviously cut-to-pattern-tie lining and comprises two parts 56 and 51having their inner longitudinal edges .contiguously disposed and beingsuitably supported at their opposite ends by the brackets 42 On theupper surfaces of the lower table parts 56 and 51 there are providedraised templet or gauge members 58 and 59 shaped to conform to theperipheral contour of the cut-to-- pattern tie lining 55.

The said lining 55 may be made of a single piece of material or of twoslightly overlapping pieces 55m and 55b, as shown in Fig. 6, and whichlining is adapted to be positioned between the templets 58 and 59 withrespect to an ultimate line of stitching. The said templets 58 and 59may be suitably removably fastened to the lower table parts 56 and 51 bythe screws 6|].

It is noted that the surfaces of the upper tie fabric table member 40and of the lower lining are tilted slightly about their positioning thetie fabric 59 and the lining 55 between the templets, and so that theautomatic of the mechanism hereinbe seen by the operator.

4| are further reinforced and supported by a longitudinal centrallydisposed rib casting 6|,

cross-sectional: contour, which in turn is fixedly mounted adjacent theends thereof on suitable brackets 62 fixed to the side supports 42 and43 by any suitable fastening means, such as for example the screws 63. Alongitudinal slotted opening 64 is provided between the table parts 56and 51, the said slot 64 being slightly longer than the length of the:l.

lining 55 and interposed between the gauge members 58 and 59. Ifdesired, instead of the gauge members 59 being extended throughout thelength of the lining on the longitudinal side opposite to ,that of thegauge member 58, the table part 51 7 may be constructed of a series ofplates 16, 1|, .12, 13 and 14 spaced from each other a predetermineddistance by the spaces 15, to permit the positioning and removal in suchspaces of frame 1" clamp soon to be described. On the plates 10 to 14there are mounted gauge pins 16 (see Fig. 8), each of which is fixedlyattached to one end of a spring member 11. The opposite end of the saidspring 11 is fixedly attached to the under surface of one of the saidplates 1|] to 14 by a rivet 11a, so that the pins 16 will normallyfreely project through slots 18 in the said plates 10 to -14 and willyieldingly disappear when the upper different width lining or to alining of different peripheral contour.

Before positioning the lining 55 between the gauges 5B, 59 and pins 16,a stitching frame clamp 85 (see Figs. 6, '1, 8 and 11, 16, 19) now to bedescribed is first properly positioned. The stitching frame clamp 85 isdesigned to grip and hold the properly positioned lining 55 andsuperimposed folded fabric during the stitching operation andsubstantially throughout the length of the line to be stitched, toprevent distortion dur' ing stitching. The said stitching clampcomprises a. pair of cooperating clamping jaw members 86 and 81,pivotally mounted on a single shaft member 88.,by means of the arms 93and '92 respectively. The shaft member 88 is adapted to be removablymounted adjacent opposite ends thereof on a pair of open brackets 89(see Fig. '1) fixed to a table portion. 96 of the apparatus. The saidtable portion 96 is arranged with the inner longitudinaledge thereofdisposed adjacent the outer longitudinal edge of the table part 4| andwith the outer or opposite longitudinal edge thereof adjacent a frontlower level table member 9| designed to receive the ultimately ejectedclamp 95, in a manner to be described hereinafter.

The lower jaw member comprises a longitudinal narrow rod member 94provided with a plurality of upwardly projecting pins 95 spaced alongthe length thereof, while the cooperating upper jaw member 81 comprisesan elongated flat rod 96 having teeth 91 in the outer longitudinal edgethereof. The said rod members 94 and 96 are designed so that when thejaw members 86 and 81 are closed, they will clamp between them thefolded tie fabric and lining, as hereinbefore explained, the prongs orpins 95 serving to prevent relative slipping and displacement of thefabric and lining while clamped by the frame 85. The surface of the rodmember 96 disposed adjacent the rod 94 may be provided with detents 950;to protectively receive the points of the prongs 95 therein. (see Fig.11). The teeth 91 are designed to transversely cross the predeterminedline of stitching during such stitching operation, so as to produceloose stitching, in the manner fully described in assignees copendingapplication, Serial No. 9398, filed March 5, 1935, by Naftali, et al.,for Method of and machines for making neckties or similar articles.

When the opposite ends of the shaft are placed in the open brackets 69to be held in such position, the jaws and 81 are opened up and the rodmember 94 positioned within the longitudinal slot .64 (see Fig. 6), withthe pins projecting upwardly. while the toothed rod is fully opened upso as to rest on the table portion automatically longitudinally folded,substantially on its longitudinal axis, to provide a single foldedlongitudinal edge and a pair of free longitudinal edges. The folding isso accomplished that the fabric, after being folded, will have the Wrongside outermost. The folded fabric is at the same time delivered to apivotally mounted pocket member or fabric carrier disposed insubstantially vertical position, after which the pocket member is causedto be moved or swung around to a substantially horizontal position tosuperimpose the said folded fabric on the lining 55 previouslypositioned between the templets 58 and 59 on the lower table member M ina definite position with respect to an ultimate line of stitching, asabove described. The said predetermined position of the necktiematerials is such that, when the sewed together necktie fabric andlining are turned inside out or reversed to dispose the right side ofthe fabric outermost, the lining will be properly disposed within thetubular tie fabric casing.

The mechanism designed for automatically 1ongitudinally folding thenecktie fabric 50 and causing the folded tie fabric to be received inthe pocket member will now be described.

As shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 4 of the drawings, a folding blade I isprovided, which is made up of a series of flat relatively thinrectangular shaped members IOI, having adjacently disposed transverseedges IOIa and I 0Ib slightly spaced from each other. The members IOIare preferably made of rigid material, such as for example any suitablemetallic material, and are mounted on a longitudinal rigid supportingbar I02 in any suitable manner, so as to permit of angular adjustment ofthe members I0 I, in order that the contiguously disposed bottom edges IMe of thesaid members IOI shall be formed into any desired contour, suchas for example the arcuate shape shown in Figs. 1, 4 and 4a. One suchform of attachment is shown in the drawings, and comprises slottedopenings I03 in the bar I02 disposed in the spaces between the membersIOI. Into these openings I03 are fitted screw threaded members I04provided with enlarged heads I040. The enlarged heads mm are designed tooverlap portions of the members IOI adjacent the edges I Ma and IOIb.Wing nuts I 04b (see Fig. 3) may be employed to maintain the members I04in position, to thus maintain the blade members IOI fixed to the barI02.

It is thus seen from the above described construction that when it isdesired to move one of the members IOI either downwardly or upwardly orin an angular direction, it is merely necessary to unscrew or loosen themembers I 04 and adjustably move the members ml. After such movement ofthe blade members IIII to desired adjusted position, the screw threadedmembers I04 may again be tightened.

The bar I 02 is provided at opposite ends thereof with a pair ofdepending bracket members I05 (see Figs. 1 and 4) fixed to said bar I02for movement therewith by any suitable attaching means, such as forexample by.weldlng.' The bracket; members I05 are designed to freelyslidably move in substantially vertically disposed guideways formed bythe angle members I06 and I01 (see Fig. 3),, each having one leg thereofmm and I0Iu respectively rigidly fixed to the inner surface of the mainside support 43 by any lineposition by abutment members I09 disposedwithin the guideway formed between the angle members I 06 and I01 and inthe path of downward movement of thebrackets I05. The said brackets I05may be provided. with notched shoulders designed to contactively restupon the abutment members I09. Each abutment member I09 forms part of atraveling carrier I I0 and is interconnected thereto by a rigid linkIII. The carrier member I I0 is provided with a pair of rollers II2,which are designedto ride between a pair of confining tracks II3, fixedto the supports 42 and 43. i

It is thus seen from the foregoing description that when the carriermembers I I0 ride downwardly in their tracks I I3, the abutment membersI09 will be carried along with the said carrier members, with the resultthat the brackets I05, together with the rod I02 and the entire foldingblade I00, will fallor move downwardly due to the force of gravity tothe dotted line positions, to effectively accomplish the task oflongitudinally folding the unfolded tie fabric 50 positioned between theraised templets 46 to 49. It is noted that in the downward travel of thefolding blade I00, a portion thereof passes through the slot 52.

By permitting the folding blade to fall by its own weight to accomplishthe folding operation as just described, the operation of the machine isthus safeguarded against harm. Should the switch which closes thecircuit to cause the automatic operation of the machine be accidentallythrown while the operators hands or arms are underneath the members IOI,such as for example while fitting the tie fabric into the tie tomplet onthe upper level table 40, there will be no force other than that ofgravity acting on the folding blade.

In Figs. 2 and 3 the necktie fabric 50 is shown positioned between thetemplets 46 to 49 in unfolded condition and with the right side of thematerial uppermost. It is noted that the tie fabric 50 is disposedsubstantially in a horizontal plane. In Figs. 3 and 4 the folding bladeI00 is shown in full lines in its uppermost position. In Fig. 4a thefolding blade I00 is shown in a subsequent position after it has beenpermitted to move downwardly. The members IOI of the folding blade areso aligned with respect to the longitudinal slot 52 in the upper table40, and are of such thickness, that a portion thereof will readily passthrough the said slot 52 carrying the fabric '50 with it, to therebyfold the said fabric 50 substantially longitudinally in half. In Figs. 3and 4 the tie fabric 50 is shown as completely folded by the dottedlines 50a. It is noted that in this latter position the folded tiefabric 50a is substantially vertically disposed. To prevent the slippingof the necktie fabric 50 during the above described folding operation,-

the folded tie fabric 50a to be received and retained in such foldedcondition while it is being transferred to superimposed position on theproperly positioned lining 55 at the lower table level 4I.

Referring now particularly to Figs. 1, 3, 4, 24a and 241), there isshown a fabric carrier or pocket member H4 adapted to receive the foldedfabric 55a therein and comprising a pair of fiat longitudinal wallmembers H5 and H5 disposed in spaced parallel relationship to eachother. The members IE5 and H6 are positioned directly underneath the tiefabric table member 40, and. the space I I! between the said members H5and H6 is designed to be substantially of the same width as that of thespace H8 between theangle members I06 and I01 and in alignment therewithand with the longitudinal slot 52 (see Fig. 3). At the receiving end ofthe space III the edge portions H511, and Hfia of the members H5 and II3 respectively are outwardly flared or rounded, as shown, to preventdamage to the folded tie fabricas it moves into the said space H1.

The members H5 and H6 are maintained in spaced relationship by thespacer members H9 disposed along the length thereof, and are fixedlysupported on a longitudinal channel shaped support I23 by means of thescrews I2I passing through the members H5 and H5, through said spacermembers H9, and threadedly received in the threaded openings I22 of thesupport I20.

As shown in Fig. 24b of the drawings, the following means are providedfor releasably retain-- ing the folded fabric 50a in the pocket H4 andduring the time that the said pocket member travels to its lower levelposition to superimpose the folded tie fabric 50a on the previouslypositioned lining 55.

,At spaced points along the length of the pocket H4 there are providedthe screw members I23, each having one threaded end I23athereof receivedin the support I and an enlarged head I23?) abutting the outer surfaceof the member H5. A. bowed spring I24 surrounding the members I23 isdisposed in the space I I1 between the members H5 and H6, to resilientlyalter the width of the space I H at selected points, to frictionally andresiliently retain the folded longitudinal edge of the folded fabric 55awithin the space II'I.

As clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 4a of the drawings, the distance ofdownward travel of the folding blade I00 is limited by a pair of stopmembers !25 and IE5, mounted on the bent over flange of the bar I02 anddisposed adjacent opposite ends thereof. Each of the said stop memingblade, as shown by dotted lines IT! in Fig. 4. This limit of downwardtravel of the folding blade I00 is so arranged that the foldedlongitudinal V edge of the tie fabric 50a will be received in theirregular or unsymmetrical pattern.

space I I I to a satisfactory depth, to be resiliently held therein.Lock nuts I28 may be provided to maintain the stop members I25 and I26in proper adjusted position. If desired, the rods IZ'I may be adjustedto different levels, as shown in the d: awings, so that one end of thefolding blade 353 may travel further into the space H! of the fabriccarrier H4 than the other, to compensate for those necktie fabrics whichare cut on an The means for automatically causing the carrier membersIii) to travel downwardly to permit the folding blade lilil to fallandaccomplish its designed folding task, and for automatically restoringthe said folding blade to its original position after the foldingoperation, will now be described.

As shown in Figs. 4 and 5, there is pivotally attached to an extendingportion IIOa of each carrier H0 a lengthwise adjustable link comprisingthe parts I30 and HI interconnected by a threaded nipple member I32. Thepart I30 is pivotally mounted on the extension IIEJa and the part I3I ispivotally connected to one end of a link I33 by the pivot I34. Theopposite end of the link I33 is pivotally connected to a stationarybracket I35 by the pivot I36, the said bracket I35 being in turn fixedto the main end support 42. It is thus seen from the above descriptionthat, when the link !33 is caused to rotate about its pivot I36 in acounterclockwise direction, as shown in Fig. 5, the carrier H0 will becaused to move downwardly and the rollers H2 will ride in the tracks H3.to permit the folding blade I00 7 *to fall by the action of gravity.When the link bers I25 and 125 comprises an externally threaded of therods I21 will strike, table part 50 and thus:

i353 is rotated in a clockwise direction, the carrier H0 will be movedupwardly to restore the folding blade I00 to its original position.

To properly synchronize the above described downward and upward movementof the folding blade I50 and to render such movement automatic, thefollowing mechanism is provided.

A cam I3'I is fixedly mounted on a rotatably mounted cam shaft I40. Acam follower comprising a roller I38 is rotatably mounted on a leverI39. The lever I39 is in turn pivotally supported at one end thereof bya stationary bracket MI, by means of the pivot I42, the said bracket I4!being fixed to the main support 42. The pivot I42 is so positioned withrespect to the cam I31 that the roller I38 will rest upon and ride onthe rim or edge of the cam I31. The opposite end of the lever I39 fromthat of the pivot I42 is interconnected to the link I33 by means of asecond link I43 having one end thereof pivotally connected to the leverI39 by the pivot I44, and the opposite end of said link I43 pivotallyconnected to the link I33 by the pivot I45. It is now seen that when thecam shaft I40 is rotated in a clockwise direction, the carrier I I0 willbe auto-, matically moved due to the action of the cam I3]. and theinterconnecting links I39, I43, I33 and I30 to I32. The said movement ofthe carrier III] will bepfirst in a downward direction, to permit thefolding blade I00 to fall, and then in an upward direction, to restorethe folding blade I00 to its uppermost position. A spring I46, havingone endthereof fixed to the lever I39 at I41,

